Paint in cans for cars

Professional aerosol can 520ml

Paint in cans to buy

Professional aerosol can 520 ml Thunder Paint

Instruction-scheme for painting a new metal part

Instruction-scheme for painting a restored metal part

Instruction-scheme for painting a new plastic part

Instruction-scheme for painting a restored plastic part

Instruction-scheme for painting a part without damage to the old paintwork

In order to paint the car, you need to understand what paint and varnish materials and in what order are applied.

Since, in this section, we will talk about repair with our own hands with the help of a can, we will not go into all types of paints, but only those that will be useful for self-repair.

For the repair of paintwork, you may need: a galvanizing compound, an epoxy primer, a plastic primer, an aluminum filler, a plastic filler, a sandpaper or a scotch-beam (abrasive fiber), a degreaser, a paint, a varnish, a transitional solvent, a polish. To this list, you can add fiberglass filler for through corrosion holes, a grid for soldering plastic or a repair kit for repairing bumpers.

In order:
Composition for galvanizing of metal. It is used as an active metal protection against corrosion. It is applied to bare metal, including colored, cleaned from corrosion and degreased. Excellent for welding welds. It acts as a primer, on which it is possible to apply paint. But to create a thickness of a layer of a paint and varnish covering on zinc it is better to put an epoxy ground, then to paint. It can also be applied with putty intended for color metals. The composition can be applied at a temperature of -35°C to +50°C. Withstands the temperature range from -60^oC to +150^oC (short-term to +210^oC). After 2 - 3 hours you can apply the following material (putty, primer, paint) - zinc should not be sanded with sandpaper. A high degree of haze of the composition, after drying, allows paint to be applied to it without prior grinding. We recommend applying epoxy primer on zinc.

Epoxy primer. Typically, gray. It is applied to the peeled and degreased metal, including the colored metal, that has been cleaned of rust. Also, it may be applied to the surface treated with a zinc compound, an old paint coating and putty surface. Also, this primer can be applied putty. It differs with high tread anticorrosive, filling and insulating properties, it also works by the method "wet on wet". We can say that this soil is multifunctional.

What does the soil have insulating properties? Very often it happens that during the grinding of the putty, the paint coat, which is adjacent to the putty, is wiped. Such rubs are primed. During priming, the solvent from the primer penetrates into the wiped layers and begins to undermine the bottom layer of paintwork materials along the contour of adhesion. To prevent such trouble use epoxy primer, which isolates the wipes.

"High filling properties of epoxy soil" is the thickness of the layer sufficient to fill small defects in the ground surface (scratches from sandpaper, pores in putty, etc.).

Method "wet on wet" - after applying an epoxy primer after 1-24 hours at +20°C, it is possible to apply paint without preliminary ground grinding.

The primer contains a significant amount of zinc phosphate, which provides additional corrosion protection of the metal. Withstands temperatures up to +150^oC (short-term up to +180^oC). The minimum application temperature is +10°C. At +20^oC: interlayer drying 5-10min; Installation strength 4-5 hours; Complete drying 24 hours; Painting without grinding by the method "wet on wet" 1-24 hours. After 24 hours, grind on a dry abrasive gradation P360-P600 before painting, and P180 before the putty. Above the primer can be applied: acrylic primers, base enamels (metallic, mother of pearl), putty, acrylic paints. Number of layers: 2-3.

Primers for plastic. It is usually transparent, possibly with a light pigmentation of metallic. It is applied to bare plastic. It acts as an adhesive primer, that is, it increases the degree of adhesion of subsequent materials to the plastic. Has no filling properties and is applied in a thin layer. The minimum application temperature is +10°C. At a temperature of +20°C: after 10 minutes, you can apply an acrylic primer, epoxy primer, all car paints. Number of layers - 1.

Putty aluminum. Gray color. Can be applied to metal surfaces (black and non-ferrous metals, galvanized) and plastic (for plastic there is a special putty - it is more elastic, but aluminum can also be used as a universal). For better anticorrosion protection of the metal, we recommend to apply a galvanizing compound and, or an epoxy primer, to the putty on the bare, rust-free, non-greasy metal. Why did we choose this filler rather than universal or fiberglass? Because it is multifunctional, with excellent physical and chemical properties. The main advantages of aluminum putty: minimal shrinkage after drying, stable stiffness on the metal surface (adds rigidity to the part), resistant to vibration loads, temperature resistance up to +120°C, ideal for smoothing the transition from the repaired surface to the old paint, pasty consistency and not Leaves pores. Preparation of the surface before applying aluminum putty:

For ferrous metals: remove rust, sand the surface with dry P80-P120 emery paper, degrease
For galvanizing and aluminum: sand the surface on a dry sandpaper P150-P180, degrease. We recommend to pre-coat the galvanized surface with a galvanizing compound, without preliminary grinding the metal. Because when grinding you will damage the factory zinc coating. After drying the composition for galvanizing (6-8 hours), there is no need to grind the surface - you can apply putty. For additional anticorrosive protection, the epoxy primer can be applied to the galvanizing compound, and after it has dried (24 hours at +20°C), putty.
For metal covered with epoxy primer: sand the surface on a dry P150-P180 sandpaper, degrease.
For metal covered with a galvanizing compound: degrease the surface without preliminary grinding.

Mixing ratio of putty with hardener: 100 parts of putty and 2-3 parts of hardener. Avoid overdosing of hardener, as the finish coat (paint or varnish) in this place can change color, and the putty will dry for a long time. After mixing with the hardener, the viability of the putty at +20°C is 4-5 minutes. The recommended temperature for application is from +10°C to +25°C. The putty can be sanded after 20-25 minutes after application at +20°C. For grinding, use abrasive paper with gradation P80-P320. Roughing - P80, then - P150, next - P240, finishing - P320. After the finish grinding, degrease and apply epoxy primer (there are many primers that are applied to the putty, but since this repair is "our own", we will focus on epoxy - it is widely used).

Putty on plastic. Typically, black. It is characterized by high elasticity, and does not crack when the plastic is slightly deformed. It is applied to bare ground and degreased plastic without first applying a primer to plastic. The main advantages of putty on plastic: minimal shrinkage after drying, stable elasticity, resistant to vibrating loads, temperature resistance up to +120°C, has pasty consistency and does not leave pores.

Preparation of the surface before applying putty on plastic: sand the plastic on a dry P150-P180 emery cloth, degrease.

Mixing ratio of putty with hardener: 100 parts of putty and 2-3 parts of hardener. Avoid overdosing of hardener, as the finish coat (paint or varnish) in this place can change color, and the putty will dry for a long time. After mixing with the hardener, the viability of the putty at +20°C is 4-5 minutes. The recommended temperature for application is +15°C to +25°C. The putty can be sanded after 15-20 minutes after application at +20°C. For grinding, use abrasive paper with gradation P80-P320. Roughing - P80, then - P150, the next - P220, finishing - P280. After finishing grinding, degrease and apply acrylic primer (mainly designed for application on putty).

Sandpaper. There are two main types of sandpaper:

To work on a dry
For wet work

We recommend sandpaper for wet use only for polishing. In all other cases, sandpaper should be used to work on a dry, even on plastic surfaces. Putties and primers are hygroscopic (absorb moisture). When you polish putty or primer with water, moisture reaches the metal. You will not have time to paint the car, and the metal under paintwork materials will already begin to oxidize and eventually corrode. On plastic parts also with wet grinding there is a risk of drying of the putty and primer, which will affect the final result of the repair.

Graduation of abrasive paper: which is larger than P80 or P240? The higher the number, the shallower the sandpaper, and vice versa.

Putties are ground with abrasive paper on a dry gradation from P60 to P320 (in increments of 100). Primers are ground with abrasive paper on a dry gradation from P320 to P600 (in increments of 100). Sandpaper for polishing on wet starts with a gradation of P1500 and up to P6000 (from P1500 to P2500 in increments of 500, and from P3000 to P6000 in 1000 increments). As a rule, for polishing enough gradation Р1500-Р2500 is enough. After that, the risks of sandpaper are removed using polishing paste. Polishing is needed to eliminate paint defects (dust on paint and varnish, stains, etc.), and to achieve a uniform glossy finish.

You need to know that for dry sandpaper, let's say, the gradation of P600 is equated to the graduation of P1200 to wet.

Paint can be divided into two types:

Which is not covered with varnish - the finish coat (1K alkyd, 2k acrylic, 1k acrylic, 2k polyurethane, etc.)
Which is varnished - the base enamel - is flat colors (without metallic and mother of pearl), colors with metallic effect, mother of pearl and xeral.

Paints that are not coated with varnish are resistant to physical and chemical stress and act as a finishing coat, they are resistant to ultraviolet, abrasion, salts, etc.

Paints that are varnished are decorative (roughly speaking for beauty), they are not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and to physical and chemical stresses. Therefore, they are coated with varnish, which gives resistance to all the above loads.

The paint is applied to the old paintwork, the primed surface (acrylic or epoxy primer). The surface must be ground beforehand to dry and free from grease. If you are going to apply a paint that you do not need to coat with varnish, then use P400 gradation or red scotch bright (abrasive fiber) to prepare the surface (grinding). If you apply a base enamel that needs to be coated with varnish, use a P600 graduation paper on dry or gray Scotch bright. The paint for varnish is more liquid and therefore it is necessary to use a finer abrasive.

All manufacturers of paints recommend applying paintwork materials at +20°C. The can should be at room temperature (+20°C). The paint is applied in 2-3 layers, with interlayer drying for 10-15 minutes. The distance of the can from the surface is 25-30 cm. The can should be shaken before use for 2-3 minutes, then the first spray should be applied to the line so that the paint does not spit onto the surface with drops, then it can be painted.

Principle of metal painting:

First option. On the metal, apply zinc, after 6 hours without sanding - epoxy primer, after drying the primer, sand it on a dry P180 abrasive, then degrease and apply aluminum putty, then sand the putty on dry abrasive P80-P320 in steps of 100, then degrease and apply epoxy Primer, after 1-24 hours without sanding, paint can be applied (after 24 hours after priming it must be sanded on dry P400 abrasive (or red scotch bright) - acrylic and alkyd paint, and P600 (or gray scotch) - base enamel Lacquer, degrease and apply paint), the paint is applied in 2-3 layers after 10-15 minutes, then if necessary apply 2-3 layers of varnish after 10-15 minutes. After the varnish has dried, the surface can be polished. If the surface is not putty after zinc and epoxy primer, the epoxy primer is rubbed off for painting.
The second option. The paint is applied to the milled (sand on a dry P400 abrasive (or red scotch rite) - acrylic and alkyd paint, and P600 (or gray scotch bright) - base enamel for varnish) and a degreased old paint finish.

The principle of painting plastic:

First option. If necessary, apply plastic filler on the plastic, then sand the putty on dry abrasive P80-P320 in steps of 100, then degrease and apply epoxy primer, after 1-24 hours without sanding it is possible to apply paint (24 hours after priming it will be necessary Sand with a dry abrasive P400 (or red scotch bright) - acrylic and alkyd paint, and P600 (or gray scotch bright) - base enamel for varnish, degrease and paint), paint applied in 2-3 layers after 10-15 minutes, then with Need to apply a coat of 2-3 cl. Oh in 10-15 minutes. After the varnish has dried, the surface can be polished.
The second option. The paint is applied to the milled (sand on a dry P400 abrasive (or red scotch rite) - acrylic and alkyd paint, and P600 (or gray scotch bright) - base enamel for varnish) and a degreased old paint finish.
The third option. If you paint a new plastic part previously not painted, then degrease the plastic surface, then apply the primer over the plastic and after 10-15 minutes apply the paint and if necessary varnish.